As promised.
My opinion on why we should step away from the angulas
In Donosti, the consumption of angulas is a tradition that highlights the tension between tradition, extreme luxury, and a modern ecological crisis.
As a Donostiarra with a fishermen in the family, I have always struggled with the idea of eating angulas. I knew small fish should be returned to sea, and saying no to them was likely the first grown-up decisions I made as a child.
Ironically, they were once so plentiful in the Oria and Deva rivers that they were considered poor man’s food. Over time, the humble angula became the star dish of the Tamborrada and eating them a tradition.
Nowadays overfishing, habitat loss, climate change and pollution have made the European eel a critically endangered species and yet manu treat this scarcity as an indicator of sophistication.
Before Christmas I watched a clip of a Spanish starchef where he demanded to know whether the supplier had sold "his" angulas to a competitor. In doing so he showed just how disconnected he is from the real world.
Many argue that fishing them is legal, but as a lawyer once told me, the law always runs behind change, and we need critical thinking to bridge the gap while it catches on.
We seem to have collectively forgotten that the sea is not an amenity for us or a backdrop for tourism. It is a vital, living part of the planet that deserves respect, and even fear. If you come from sea people, you know.
The principles of fishing are simple: if a population is low, we stop fishing and give nature time to recover. (Apologies to the vegans who follow me, I know this will not go far enough for you.)
Back in 1990, the movie The Freshman mocked people who paid fortunes to eat endangered animals. It seemed absurd then. Now we are living that story, and many behave as though this is normal behaviour.
Prominent Basque chefs have openly questioned the ethics of serving angulas, calling for collective responsibility.
I would add that we should also stop turning the pleasure of sitting around a table into a competitive sport where eating the last exclusive mouthful has become the goal.
Gora Donosti ❤️
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